I just purchased the Akai GX-260D tape deck off ebay. Seller said it had been tested and was "fully functional & working great", but that's another story... I powered it up and tried to play a tape, but didn't get too far. The forward and reverse buttons were only working sporadically, sometimes pushing the forward button would play the tape in reverse, and sometimes not at all. The fast fwd and fast reverse seem to work OK. The machine was extremely filthy on the inside and the heads desperately needed cleaning. It seems that the forward/reverse mechanism needs maintenance and/or lubrication. I've managed to get the exterior covers off except for the front, so I can't really get to the mechanism. I've ordered manuals, but not sure they will be that much help. Is there any source I can go to for maintenance/lubrication instructions? Thanks for your help.

Hmmm, other than the head switch, I've never ever had a problem with the GX-260D (the 265D was another story). But heres a long shot. Check the wires of the sensing poles (there is one on the left tension arm that pops out if you push up on the pinch roller and one near the shut of switch on the right side of the head nest (but these can be canceled with the reverse mode switch). If you are comfortable working in the deck, take the handle of your screw driver and tap on each of the clear plastic relays--one may be stuck. Clean those contacts behind the switches!!!! Dirt wrecks havoc on Solenoid/Relay operated machines w/o logic If you restore that tape controls, then you will need to clean the head switches with some tuner cleaner or deoxit. Given all the dirt inside, chances are the head switches are dirty. The GX is one of the few Akai's that I can recommend w/o reservation--but who knows what has happened to the one you bought. Also, just a thought, make sure that voltage switch is set to 120v, 60HZ if you are in the US! Guys bought many GX-260D's overseas while they were in the military and never used them much when they returned to the USA.

Good luck!! Keep us posted!

Thanks Pete. I do not have any electronic experience, but am a civil engineer and mechanically inclined. I've owned several Akais from the '60s era, so have a great deal of respect for these machines. They're built like tanks, but with the precision of a Swiss watch. They don't build them like that anymore! Anyway, I will attempt to follow your suggestions for the switches. Since my first post, I've discovered another problem with either the motors or the brakes. After playing a tape for a few minutes at 7˝ips, it ground to a halt, like the brakes were hanging up, or the drive motor was running out of gas. I tried it again, and it would only go for about a foot of tape and stop, however, it did seem to work OK at 3-3/4ips. Any ideas????

Sounds like it hasn't been used much at all with the symtoms that you describe--just stored somewhere like a garage.

Easy stuff first (make sure the speed switch is clean, check that belt!, oil that motor and flywheel capstan) I think unless you witness the brakes clamp (with a "chope" sound on the 260D), or hear them rub, then that isnt the issue: then move on below:

Harder stuff:


Consider:


If the Capstan Motor's (remember it is AC Hysteresis and not Servo on the 260's) AC Motor run cap is weak and ready to go (sometimes they fail with a "SPRRRRRR!!!" and a little smoke (disturbing but not a fire hazard--I would hope). On that deck the AC motor run capacitor is silver and cylindrical and I think that it is mounted near that capstan motor. There should be 3 of these cylindrical caps (one for each of the 3 motors).

Don't panic yet,

But I've found that the symptoms are what you describe (particulary on Akai, Teac A Series, and Revox) and a couple other issues

Is the motor getting hot?
the capstan motor will usually become very very hot and/or it will hum louder than usual--like a vibrating 60 cycle buzzz, buzzz....sometimes vibrating the front panel a little (bad AC Motor run caps on the reel motors will usually vibrate the reels). Normal sounds on a 260D? (and the similar motored 215D) (I know, I am ridiculous with these machines...) should be a pronounced "fan" sound ("haaaaaa") at 7 1/2ips and a slight "wooooooo" motor-pole-induction sound at 3 3/4. Under NO circumstances should that big motor stop (unless the belt is broken/stretched or it needs oil). Also if the AC Motor Run cap for the big motor is bad--you'll have issues when the machine warms up and if you shut it off and let it cool, it will appear to work again--for a little while.

Keep us posted. If too many things are wrong, then you have to decide whether to fix it up or by another one and use one for parts (AKAI parts don't really exist these days). But, as you know, this is a personal decision--I sometimes try to fix them and sometimes I don't (I never let anyone make this decision for me..LOL!). But I like the 260D better than most Akai's even though the 266D, 267D, 266ii sounded a tad better due to the amps (that tend to fail).

Keep us posted!

I feel your pain, the 2nd 260D (Blue meter US model) that I bought off Ebay for $30 had horrible sound due to a dirty head switch and VERY DIRTY heads (I had to scrub them to get sound)--and that one was described as "fully working and in excellent condition."

Thanks again Pete. Sounds like the AC motor run capacitor may be part of the problem, but I'll try the "easy" stuff first. Also, I've reviewed the manuals (pictures are not very good copy) and as suspected, they are not much help. It's still not clear to me on how to remove the front panels. Does anyone have any clear diagrams for this purpose? And how does one know how to determine if the capstan drive belt needs to be replaced? Visual inspection shows no signs of cracking, but the belt does not seem taught, maybe stretched. It does not appear to be slipping though.

Fred

That belt should be taught--no flop. Not car fan-belt tight, but in a perfect V with some tension. If you get rubber goo (black) on your fingers its definitely bad. If you are getting a bunch of flop and it feels lose--then that is one of your issues for sure! Those belts don't crack then just loosen over time and sometimes liquify to a paste that will get everywhere!

As for taking off the front panel--it's hard to remember how I did it, but I seem to remember removing the wood sides (I have too many decks....LOL!)